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Écrit par Administrator
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Vendredi, 26 Juin 2009 14:03 |
Laurent Mabileau's winery is situated in St Nicolas de Bourgueil, in the heart of the Loire Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There he cultivates a 43 hectares vineyard in the St Nicolas de Bourgueil and Bourgueil appellations
The estate's only grape variety, the Cabernet Franc (locally called «Breton»), is vinified as red wine. The site enjoys a maritime climate particularly favourable to the vineyard, which is also well. sheltered from the north winds by a forest, and benefits from southern exposure. The estate lies on a plateau overlooking the majestic Loire, the cradle of the France's splendid château country.
The density of plantation is 4,500 vines per hectare, and the viticultural techniques employed derive directly from tradition. Thus, depending on the type of soil, some of the grapevines are ploughed, while others have grass between the rows, encouraging the root system to delve deep into the earth
The winter pruning is strict, and the use of products to treat the vines is kept to a minimum in respect for the environment.
In the spring there is, if necessary, thinning by removal of base-buds, and leaf thinning in two passes. The process of trellising and leaf thinning fights grey rot (botrytis) by physical rather than chemical means, and it allows the grapes to absorb a maximum of sunlight.
In the end of August or beginning of September, Laurent Mabileau does green harvesting in order to limit crop size and select the finest grapes. He devotes great care and attentive observation during the entire growing cycle to determine the maturation of the grapes on every parcel, optimal ripeness being a key factor in making fine wine.
Only by dint of such labour can Laurent Mabileau produce a vintage with enough structure to allow barrel aging. Maturation in oak barrels is essential to Cabernet Franc, softening and ripening the tannins and developing the complexity of the wine with a slow, gradual micro-oxygenation. The result is a wine our ancestors would have recognized and savoured.
Truth be told, the current fad of lengthy barrel aging leads to excessively oaky wines lacking in natural aroma and flavour, a phenomenon which leaves some experts shaking their heads in wonder. On the other hand, since it clearly improves the taste of wine, why should a reasonable amount of oak aging be reserved for the "grands crus"? Seeking the golden mean, Laurent Mabileau avoids masking the distinctive character, the "typicité" of his wines. Consequently, the amount of time he allows a wine to stay in barrels is determined by the structure of that wine and the vintage.
Because quality is his main concern, Laurent Mabileau carefully barrel-ages his wine, despite the high costs involved. They include the price of the barrels, the cost of labour, and an annual loss of 5% through absorption and evaporation. His aim here is to stand out by producing authentic wines which will delight the senses of friends and clients. |
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Mis à jour le Vendredi, 26 Juin 2009 14:05 |
